Darkness fell and Yom Kippor ended with a symbolic pink hue spreading through the clouds. We witnessed the Jewish holiday in a small village just outside of Jerusalem where we "celebrated" with our friend Yael and few of her friends. Drinking the infamous Israeli beer ,Goldstar, and watching movies projected onto the hosts large whitewashed wall. The day is normally spent fasting, praying and enjoying your families company. The night delivered a dose of the long forgotten pleasures of a normal life, where one has a kitchen, a computer, bed, and friends.

This morning I took a few hours to myself, escaped the spread of delicious hummus, salad, olives... for a breath of crisp air and a chance to walk the streets, right in the middle, with no chance of a car speeding up behind. The peaceful day and charming village ( where John the Baptist lived) inspired me to explore the narrow alleyed streets and climb a nearby terraced hill. After the fearful summit ( had to climb through a broken fence) and upon my descent I found the perfect shady rock to perch. I looked out over the green hills spotted with tan homes and was entranced with the view of a Russian church on a near by hill. I sat for a long time, my bare feel on the rock, and simply thought about the past few months, years and those to come. It was a wonderful solitary moment and makes me appreciate Israel even more. The opportunity to walk around by myself safely.

Traveling in another modern country is offering a perspective that gets lost in all of the developing world traveling. Hearing the passionate debates about Israeli politics, the state of perpetual and seemingly permanent conflict, being able to communicate with the people combined with the charm of an ancient city with modern amentities is a refreshing change from Central Asia. We have been to many of the holy sites already and they are indeed astounding, powerful and more touching and personal than I would have expected.

We met and traveled with our friend Yael in India for a few weeks and it has been fantastic to spend time with her and meet her family and friends. Her parents have taken us in and are extremely generous, providing us with a private room and always feeding us, what a treat! Tomorrow Yael, Thane and I are going to the Judean desert to hike for a few days, supposedly up onto a plateau which overlooks the Dead Sea - very very excited. Love to you all.